Hello,
To get down to it, my question is what is the most efficient way to install a ceramic tile floor over a quick track radiant heat system? There is a small part of the kitchen/hallway that is getting tiled, and it is meeting up to an existing hardwood floor. I want to put down some kind of underlayment that will make it easy to get at the radiant incase it needs to be repaired. I am skeptical of putting laying any kind of thin set right on top of the quick track because it will all have to be ripped out all the way down to the subfloor to fix anything. My two concerns are height limitations and not destroying the quick track panels if the tile gets removed. Any input is appriciated, thanks.

What do you need to make up for height to match?

You should not have to tear up floor to fix the radiant if it is done properly baring a misplaced nail or screw while putting down the Hardi Backer Board.

Proper procedure would be thinset 1/4" Hardi Backer To quick track, then thinset Tile to Hardi Backer. About 5/8" build up. You could probably skip thin setting the hardi backer to the quick track if the floor plane is dead level.


I should note that You need to have 1 1/8" of subfloor under your tile. I also do not know about bonding tile directly to quick track. The tile industry is mixed about laying tile on plywood directly. Some say its okay as long as it is an exterior grade plywood. Is quick track?

I have seen tile done on plywood with no problems, and some that has had problems. I for the most part believe if you have a good deflecto calculation, and the proper subfloor thickness you are good to go.


Gordy

Thanks for the reply, I know that the floor is dead level at this point, i was only thinking that it would be impossible to get at the radiant heat panels if it was cased in concrete. I am going to take your advise and skip the thin setting the Hardi Backer to the quick track, in this case would you just screw it in place and thin set the tiles on top of that?

Thanks again,

Well Think of a radiant concrete slab or gypcrete install as far as getting to the tubing.


By skipping the thinset to the quick track you may only pick up 1/16".

When I sy dead level I also refer to dips you would be surprised if you lay a 10' straight edge on the floor. All that will reflect to your tile. You did say it was a small area.


If you want to skip the thinset then you would screw directly to the quick track. MISS THE TUBING WITH THE SCREWS!!


Gordy

Look into Ditra membrane. No screws or cement board needed.I now see the 'Home Centers' carrying rolls of the stuff in the tile section.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx

Yes that is another option. Itsaves about an 1/8" in build up height compared to 1/4" hardibacker, and the fastening. But this stuff is pretty pricey.


Gordy

Is the issue the tiling or the quick track? As an option, instead of quick track there is a radiant floor system in which the element is a flat double insulated all metal flat ribbon woven into a rubber weave mat. It can be embedded within concrete or tiling adhesive, is UL listed, and carries a 15 year warranty. Or to avoid the whole floor install, if you have access to the joists under the floor there is a product with a printed element on a plastic sheet that is installed between the joists. This system is a radiant flooring system that will heat the floor, but it does not warm the room as a primary heat source. Installing between the joists removes the hassle of installing under a new floor. Check out the link at my site. http://www.radiantheatusaonline.com/shop/category.aspx?catid=30

Kevin,

the original poster asked about tile assembly options that would allow for serviceability of his radiant assembly later. If you read his post, you could see that, and understand that the same issue exists with your product as well and in fact any above floor radiant method.

You could answer his question as it relates to your product, and that would be fine, but please refrain from spamming this forum with nothing but loosely related advertisements.

If you would like to show how your product would allow for easier serviceability should anything go wrong down the line... or that serviceability down the line is less of an object with your product, perhaps, if that's a case you can make... feel free. That would be an example of actually participating in this discussion rather than just posting an ad.

I'll cut you some slack because you're new, and we're glad to have more participation from the under-represented electric crowd, but please be a little more mindful moving forward.

Rob:

Thanks, Kevin and I are both in the same market.

We too, use electric when needed.

^^^ still laughing at the right turn only car.

I'll take a right turn car that can run on multiple fuels, which allows me the liberty to choose the cheapist one. Before I take a left/ right turn car that only runs on utility electric, or expensive solar/ wind arrays to produce electric. 11 cents a kilowatt where I live

Not that radiant electric does not have its applications.


Gordy

Gordy:

I believe we are on the right trail.

Gee or Haw matters not.

The fun is in the journey.

<<< Lowering carbon foot print one home at a time.

<<< wants to watch rob drive the car.