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Posted
I am new to this board so forgive my questions if previously covered. We plan to build handcrafted logs in snow belt country, for the second time. First project included the use of 1x4 sleepers under the sill log in order to allow room for cherry flooring, and rubber tubing went underneath. We fire our 3 zone (one each floor) with an oil boiler, which is quite noisy in an open cabin of 1500 sf. What are my install options for my new cabin of 1884 sf given my limited knowledge that my under the floor system probably has room for improved efficiencies? If we go to a poured gypcrete type material, with the use of 3/4 plywood, how much room must be allowed for under the sill log at the time of the log set? How about some ball park sf install costs of various options? And, finally, how much sweat equity can I earn on each of your recommendations given that my carpenter skills are not yet perfected?

Thanks for your help.
Merk
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Tupper Lake,NY, USA | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<NRT.Rob>
Posted
good questions! I can't answer the log specific one as I'm not sure what you're asking there; is the floor itself going to shift or move, or are you starting the log wall above the floor height and asking how high you should start the wall?



------------------
Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC
-=RFH Design, Supply and Consultation=-
RPA certified Radiant Designer
http://www.NRTradiant.com
rob@NRTradiant.com
 
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I think I know what he is looking for regarding the plate under the logs. The plate is used to lift the logs above the floor covering so the covering edge can disappear just under the log - eliminates the need for base moulding and leaves a clean looking appearance between the log and the finished floor.

As for options, I must mention that Warmboard addresses that need quite well while addressing the efficiencies question as well.

Warmboard acts as the primary subfloor and installs directly on to your joists. The rim plates you need are placed directly onto Warmboard just as you would with plywood subflooring. Any tube paths going under the logs would not be used.

This is a common request from our customers who build with any log or kit material that typically sits on top of the subflooring and that is wider than a standard 6" exterior wall.

For more information about Warmboard, we can go offline to spare the readers a sales pitch. Go to Warmboard.com and click on the Regional Offices link to determine who to contact for your area.
 
Posts: 6 | Location: Portland, OR | Registered: 02 April 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<fitter66>
Posted
as far as the boiler goes look at Buderus' direct vent oil boiler as the rielo burner and the fact it is sealed combustion makes it pretty quite. Make sure it sized to your heat demand as most I see are 200% plus oversized. as far as the poured floor I use Maxxon thermafloor in the chicago area with good results 1 1/2" is best with 3/4" over the tube as a rule of thumb. I would stay with oil as the cost per therm is lower than gas in the midwest.
 
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OK, I'll do my homework on warmboard. In the meantime, I continue to search for some cost information.
When we did this 1500 sf in 2001, a local heating and plumbing company gave me a ballpark number prior to Weil McLean engineer doing the heat calc.
I want to avoid sticker shock surprise and we are going to spend $ for blueprints in two weeks, so I am looking for some numbers on total costs.
Or, is it best to present the blueprints to a company and ask them to do a complete cost and install proposal?

Merk
 
Posts: 2 | Location: Tupper Lake,NY, USA | Registered: 18 January 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
<NRT.Rob>
Posted
That's the typical route if you're looking for installed costs. Varies widely by contractor, quality, region and system!

------------------
Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC
-=RFH Design, Supply and Consultation=-
RPA certified Radiant Designer
http://www.NRTradiant.com
rob@NRTradiant.com
 
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