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Also, did the tech on the job tell you what the gas pressure and combustion ppm were? Probably wouldn't mean anything to you, but there are "qualified" guys out there that don't even have the equipment to tell you this (essential).
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Hello Hydronic Solutions,
The boiler was installed on a newly poured concrete pad. I have natural gas and I live in a major city. I don't know how to tell what size pump is on the boiler? Everything was new and supposedly matched to the system when it was installed. thanks for your interest. Help |
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We have been having problems with flue gas spillage/leakage form the cabinet and venturi on a munchkin 399m. We use a bacharach analyzer to set this boiler up and gas pressure, draft, combustion are ok.
Has anybody else had similar problems with this boiler? |
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I installed a 399 recently. Its been in service about two months now. Running like a champ.
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Check your vent length, termination, exterior location... Make sure they meet HTP spec. I've now switched to the Lochinvar Knight. Very nice unit. TRUE sealed combustion also, not combustion air into a loose cabinet enclosure.
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My 2 year old 80M natural gas is giving me F10 faults as well. I was pleased to see that the code referred to a simple (<$30)probe. After two days my fault code is back. What the heck is wrong? This unit has worked flawlessy for two winters - I am very pleased with it - 5,000 sf house with radiant (concrete) floors and hot water all from 80,000 btu's in Northern NJ! Now I am getting very tired of running to the basement to reset the fault code. Gas supply pipe from the street, meter and everything was new with the boiler. Why does it seem to go off at night more than the day? Very odd. Does anybody have a fix for this?
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Donald T.:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Joseph T.: We just started to carry a new pvc vent boiler 92% eff. from Triangle Tube. It looks very promising and is very simple in its design. Prestige Solo 110. It is worth taking a look at.[Have you had a postive experience with the Triangle Tube Solo?] |
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Hello,
I have prices for a full install of a Munchkin 80m and superstor combo. I need all aspects of an install-zone valves, 1 cartridge circulator, condensate pump, along with all wiring and piping. I have an estimate of $7600. How does that sound? High, okay, low?? I need a new boiler. Thanks, Wondering |
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I live in upstate NY. I have a quote for about $10.8k for the same size boiler with a Smart 60 gallon side arm heater, all controls for 4 zones of baseboard heat (house already has 3, I'm adding a small 4th) and one primary zone for domestic water all controlled by a ARM-5P switching relay. This includes a new header for piping, removal of old boiler and move of boiler to new location. All other connections new.
I asked about another replacement unit using a Pennco FSB4 boiler in existing location and got a quote for $8.3k I submit this for your comparison as well as to solicit any thoughts about the choice between the two. I plan to be in the house >3 years. |
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Hi Unk,
Thanks for the thorough response. I am in Massachusetts where a dollar buys a quarter, and home of the "Big Dig"! I am also in NOrth Andover, a town that has become very desirable since I moved in forty years ago. My concern was for how much extra I had paid for the new boiler and hot water heater, given my location on two levels. Further, the contractor who put mine in is known as being pricey but also knowledgable and an excellent craftsman. I gather from your note that what I paid is in line with your estimates. Apparently, our locations may be similar. The impression I get from investigation on the net is that it is not a good idea to mix and match components from different manufacturers. I am not an expert Further, I also conclude from the interet that Munchkin is among the best units. It is not clear, however, whether the new unit will function as long as the last, i.e. forty years.My guess is that the high tech nature of the unit implies a shorter life expectancy. I think we have done well. Thanks for the response. Wondering |
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Thanks for your reply, Wondering. I do not live in the most desirable area of NY state (200 miles west of NYC in the Corning-Elmira area) so I would expect my costs are inflated due to isolation. Twelve year warrantees are not the same as 40 year warrantees, but gas prices are also not very steady here either. I also have found mixing and matching is not a great idea. Thus, I intend to follow through with the installation of the unit.
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I would suggest to have someone that knows about the boiler.This is a very high efficiency boiler and very high tech. little things can make a big difference. I own a 140M and is been abou 1.5 years that is being installed. very impressed but also had some instances where i experinced a rummbling noise. you have to know what screw to twick otherwise you are screwed. in my case i was lucky and so far so good. I just finished my basement and my office is right next to the boiler wall and i don't know when the boiler works or not. very quiet, very efficient after lasrt winter's prices in Mass.,
Make sure the plumber knows . and you don't even need the vision unless tou like to go all the way. In my case I have three zones basement (baseboard), first and second floor (radiators) and hot water heater (superstore). Very important to have 3/4 pipe for the gas line and always min of 3.5 presure from your gas supplier. In my case I went and installed a new gas meter (no charge )from the gas company. The exhaust pipe is from Munchkin since they have a patent of the two PVC pipes together so it takes the guess work out. Outisde it needs a pitch of 1/4 for the water to drain down and some pump or if you don't need it to go inside some hole. the unit will generate a good amount of water so a pump is recomended. These two things the gas and the exhaust are the most essential things for the unit to work. the rest of the stuff are also to be known from your intaller. Don't be fooled from price alone if you want to sleep at night and also when tit is freezing out you don't want to go down your basement to reset your controller.... good luck and you will love this unit when you see what it does. Tim
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I need serious help with my boiler. I have a 80 LP and it has given me nothing but problems. At night it goes out we have to go down stairs to restart it all day long. When we wait to see if it lights it makes a loud exploding sound when it tries to light. It just isn't lighting and this is very scary. I am afraid it is going to blow up or something. I have had this boiler for 3 years and the contractor has just stopped trying to fix it. We had the house built 3 years ago and everything was put in professionally. Please someone help.
814-694-3097 |
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I have installed over 16 of these Munchkin Boileers and to date 6 of them have had fan failures and control board failures. It cost's over $500.00 (trade) to purchase these parts as Heat transfer does not sell individual components or rebuild these large assemblys. Most of the fan failures have been the plastic cage disentegrating, this looks like a $5.00 piece of plastic that they charge over $500.00 for. Under these conditions Where is the energy savings?
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Chris,
Your supplier is not informed, or doesn't care, because you can get that plastic swirl plate you are describing. You do know that they have a 3 year fan warranty, right? However, you have an installation issue, not a fan issue. Oxygen does not disentegrate plastic, recycled exhaust and other chemicals do though. Some scenerios as follows: A) Improper venting. B) Chemicals stored near the boiler being sucked in through the jacket (the fumes). C) This one has happened to me personally. If there is an exhaust fan in the room, and multiple boilers, the exhaust fan will pull exhaust back through the other boilers not currently running and cause all kinds of bad things. The swirl plates will eat up, and the board and wiring can get corroded and cause all sorts of errors. There are failures, but most times they are always installation related. |
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How is your water around where you live some times the heat ex gets plugged with deposits and the water flash boils and you get the sound your discribing the way to fix it is to get another heat ex or find a mild cleaner like a clr and feed this into your heat ex by temp plumbing some hose bibs and ballvalves to get the cleaner into the unit.i used a old circulator pump and some clear hose you can get at homedepot a bucket and cleaner remember it should be mild cleaner i ran into this problem before let me know how it turns out .cleaning the heat ex is cheaper than buyin a new one |
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The black deposits are surfer cyrtals and if you have water coming up thru the coils your trap is plugged - clran the coils and flush with water - the condensate is corrodsive and if not serviced and clean properly with corrode the belly of the boiler. any time you have shudding in the boiler it couldf be that the flame is going into the burner - I find that you need to clean this coil at least once a year and you must remove the cover plate to inspect - not just start up and say it's ok- if you have hi heat demands like base board heating or / and domestic hot water - problems show up a little faster. On the older units that have a white material you can see where the condensate comes up to by the brown markings. I would like other input from installers and service tecs to these issues. Thanks my 2 bits worth. HOPEFULLY HELPFUL
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