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<NRT.Rob>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by BreakerBacker:
I have to admit that during installation I had a few issues, but the rep and Munchkin tech support helped out and the unit is operating as well as can be exected. I hate the way that Munchkin does not give vision control access out to regular ppl that buy their product, but that is the way it goes. Couldn't buy a comparable unit for anywhere near the $$$. Now that it is installed it is going great. I have the unique oportunity to build an identical house with same floor plan, north south oriention and heat loss, a block away. This home will have a conventional plain radiant system with standard water heater vs. the munchkin w/ ORC and an indirect. Both systems run on propane. I finally will get definitive numbers. I might even build another one of these "test samples" with all variables the same only altering the heating and cooling system by going with a combo roof top propane fired heater/cooler. We will have to see how this turn out.

Greg.


Definitely please post your results when you have some numbers (but make sure variables are isolated, like room temperature and such).



------------------
Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC
-=RFH Design, Supply and Consultation=-
RPA certified Radiant Designer
http://www.NRTradiant.com
rob@NRTradiant.com
 
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<guest from the northwest>
Posted
tdechill wrote:
I'm interested in installing a Munchkin oiler, Vision computer and Superstor in my home in upstate NY. Who sells them to homeowners in the NE? Thanks

You can get a Munchkin boiler from the folks at www.MVSupply.biz, however I don't think they sell the Superstor. They offer free drop shipping, and a great price. Just make sure you size it yourself. If you go to their installation photo section, you can see some photo's of my boiler room on Camano Island, WA. Hope this helps.
 
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<greenmountain>
Posted
We live in VT, and last month had a Munchkin 140M natural gas boiler installed. Since then, we've had an ongoing problem with the unit going into short periods of loud vibrations, lasting 40-50 seconds, with the whole unit vibrating like an old-fashioned hotel massage bed. Soemtimes it happens every 5 minutes or so, for an hour or more on end; other times it's fine for a few days. Our heating contractor -- who we found on the mfgr's website and is "vision certified -- has been out to our home twice in last 2 weeks. He says it has something to do with the fuel / oxygen mix, and tried adjusting fuel-oxygen mix screw ("throttle?"). But after he left, the the vibrations came back, They came back out today, and tried adjusting it some more, but it came back. Apparently when it's adjusted with the flame color not pure blue (i.e, w/ some orange) the vibrations doesn't occur, but when the flame looks right (nice and blue), the vibrations happen. Our contractor says he's installed many of these units in propane applications w/ no problem, but that this is only their 2nd NG installation and the other also has this vibration problem. Does anyone have any experience with this problem?
 
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<Guest>
Posted
This may sound stupid but how is it piped (primary/secondary?) and how many zones?
 
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<greenmountain>
Posted
2 zones, plus water heater. How do I determine if the piping is "primary" or secondary"?
Thank you.
 
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<T-roy>
Posted
Does the gas valve have an orange line drawn on the top? You may want to call tech support. The valve may need another adjustment. Is the 3/4" gas line piped right up to the boiler? you cannot reduce the gas line size. it must be 3/4".
 
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I just had a Muchkin do the exact same thing after I used my combustion analyzer. The boiler first needs to be commissed by performing a combustion Analyzation to ensure proper CO and CO2 levels. Then there is a allen screw above the throttle which further adjusts the unit between high and low fire. Contact your contractor and have him contact HTP and they will walk him through it.
Good Luck and Happy hoildays Jeffrey
 
Posts: 37 | Location: Steamboat Springs, CO | Registered: 12 December 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Dunwell>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by tdechill:
I'm interested in installing a Munchkin oiler, Vision computer and Superstor in my home in upstate NY. Who sells them to homeowners in the NE? Thanks


I'm in upstate NY myself and having this setup installed right now. My plumber bought the supplies thru FW Webb, but I paid for it. They can sell to you directly. The Webb prices were much much cheaper than the online prices. I must've saved $500 on the boiler alone!
Good luck,
Dunn
 
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<Joseph T.>
Posted
We just started to carry a new pvc vent boiler 92% eff. from Triangle Tube. It looks very promising and is very simple in its design. Prestige Solo 110. It is worth taking a look at.
 
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<jlaw>
Posted
Hello can some help with the error message of F01 or F11 for the Munchkin 199M. I have to reset it to get the boiler going again a few times a night. Having no luck with the Massachusetts Office finding us an HVAC person near Boston to help. Please call or email me if you are a Munchkin expert to assist. Thank you very much 617-385-1376.
 
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<GuestFromTheNorthwest>
Posted
originally posted by jlaw:
Hello can some help with the error message of F01 or F11 for the Munchkin 199M. I have to reset it to get the boiler going again a few times a night. Having no luck with the Massachusetts Office finding us an HVAC person near Boston to help. Please call or email me if you are a Munchkin expert to assist. Thank you very much 617-385-1376.

I'm not a Munchkin expert, just a Munchkin 199M owner. Here's what my Munchkin book says for these codes.
F01: Safety Limit Flue - This code appears if the Safety Limit Flue senses a temperature higher than 210 degrees. Remedy - Push the red button down on the Flue sensor, then push the reset button on the display. If you experience another F01 lock out code, replace the flue sensor, then try again. Check to see that condensation line is not frozen. Manually reset by pushing the S4/reset button. If this problem persists, call factory for further assistance.

F11: The flame detector circuit is seeing a flame signal while no flame is present. Remedy - Check the wiring to the Gas Balve. Check the flame rod and make sure it's clean, then manually reset S4/Reset button. If a lockout occurs, replace the board.

You can contact Heat Transfer Products, Inc. at (800) 323-9651. Hope this helps.

Good luck!
 
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You may want to check that your flue is not obstructed - check outside to insure that the end is not frozen or blocked by snow / ice. This applies also to your combustion air intake. Listen to make sure you combustion air blower is running. Check to see that the tubing from the pressure sensor is connected at both ends. Pull off and push on your electrical connectors at the circuit board to insure that they have not corroded or making poor contact (do this with power off of course, - and gently, -the board can crack).

Flue obstruction is rather common, - check that first.

No doubt some one out your way will read your thread and get back to you on a service tech,

Niels
 
Posts: 32 | Location: Blue Mounds, WI USA | Registered: 13 December 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Guest>
Posted
The sensor is probably bad (talking from experience). I would bet my left nut that if you replace it it will work fine. They aren't expensive.
 
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<tr>
Posted
quote:
Originally posted by greenmountain:
We live in VT, and last month had a Munchkin 140M natural gas boiler installed. Since then, we've had an ongoing problem with the unit going into short periods of loud vibrations, lasting 40-50 seconds, with the whole unit vibrating like an old-fashioned hotel massage bed. Soemtimes it happens every 5 minutes or so, for an hour or more on end; other times it's fine for a few days. Our heating contractor -- who we found on the mfgr's website and is "vision certified -- has been out to our home twice in last 2 weeks. He says it has something to do with the fuel / oxygen mix, and tried adjusting fuel-oxygen mix screw ("throttle?"). But after he left, the the vibrations came back, They came back out today, and tried adjusting it some more, but it came back. Apparently when it's adjusted with the flame color not pure blue (i.e, w/ some orange) the vibrations doesn't occur, but when the flame looks right (nice and blue), the vibrations happen. Our contractor says he's installed many of these units in propane applications w/ no problem, but that this is only their 2nd NG installation and the other also has this vibration problem. Does anyone have any experience with this problem?
 
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Posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by sweed:
I would suggest looking at your supplyer befor you buy. I am in the middle of a mess with munchkins Oregon distributor, for two weeks they could not make a decission as to what to do about shipping dammage and whether the boiler could be changed over to propane. It was ordered propane but shipped natural gas now they want a 25% restock and this was bought through a large name supplyer. I am not done with this one, but the point is what ever brand you go with make sure thay provide good support, now, durring warrenty, and down the road. Oh and for me, I won't be using munchkin again unless something changes with their OR reps. good luck!


Sweed, Do you live in Oregon? I live in Portland and have been wanting to take a look at someone's radiant setup before I install. Me email address is mxt196@yahoo.com. Give me and email and maybe we can meet up sometime.
 
Posts: 3 | Location: Portland, OR USA | Registered: 27 December 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Having problems with a Munchkin boiler for radiant floor heating in a vacation house. Propane, in-ground tank. Cold climate.

Since the installation 16 months ago, we have been plagued by F10 lockouts. This is a vacation house, only used winter weekends, so this is a disaster. The boiler has shut-down and locked-out 20x last season, 10x this season including 5 of last 6 nights.

What is F10? The Munchkin manual says, "This code appears if the flame is going out while the burner is on and this happens more then 4 times in one heat demand." Requires a manual reset.

The boiler has good periods and bad. Ran from mid Nov to late January with no problems, and now locking-out just about every night, usually in the middle of the night (I have a web-cam monitoring the control panel). Yes, I think the lock-outs are correlated with cold, but on the other hand we had some very cold nights in the Nov-Jan period when the boiler ran fine.

Possible Cause: Freeze-up of propane regulator
- In one lockout episode (mid morning on a very cold day) I was able to observe that the Rinnai tankless hot-water was not getting gas. From this I conclude that our problem is intermittant gas supply, not lack of capacity in normal conditions.
- Thinking moisture in tank, we've had methanol injected
- Replaced house regulator
- Replaced regulator at the propane tank

Any suggestions? Have others had problems with a Munchkin locking-out F10? Seems like a problem for a vacation house.

-- Sally

------------------
Sally Shears (a.k.a. "Molly")
SallyShears@gmail.com
 
Posts: 1 | Location: NE US | Registered: 05 February 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<Guest>
Posted
Can't help with the propane issues, but another thing to check...

Hold down the S4 button for 3 seconds. Now, press the S4 button until you reach the D7 function (current read from flame rectification probe). This should read somewhere between 3.8 and 4.2. If not clean or replace it.
 
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Possible Cause: Freeze-up of propane regulator
- In one lockout episode (mid morning on a very cold day) I was able to observe that the Rinnai tankless hot-water was not getting gas. From this I conclude that our problem is intermittant gas supply, not lack of capacity in normal conditions.
- Thinking moisture in tank, we've had methanol injected
- Replaced house regulator
- Replaced regulator at the propane tank

Any suggestions? Have others had problems with a Munchkin locking-out F10? Seems like a problem for a vacation house.

-- Sally

------------------
Sally Shears (a.k.a. "Molly")
SallyShears@gmail.co

You may have solved your own problem. Try picking up some of the heat tape that sells for preventing hose bibs from freezing up and wrap your regulator if its outside. Do you have drip legs installed in the gas piping just prior to the gas line entering the gas valve of your heaters? Just a thought.

Greg
 
Posts: 9 | Location: Rio Rancho, NM, USA | Registered: 13 October 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
<DaveH>
Posted
Sally,

I have had the same problem and others with my Munchkin. You should start by cleaning the flame rod with emery cloth and re-installing it. I have to clean mine every 3 weeks or I get the same problem. It is an easy task and only requires a philips screw driver. One dealer told me to install a new "MIT" buner and flame rod. I'm waiting for the parts to retrofit my Munchkin. Hope this helps.
quote:
Originally posted by SallyShears:
Having problems with a Munchkin boiler for radiant floor heating in a vacation house. Propane, in-ground tank. Cold climate.

Since the installation 16 months ago, we have been plagued by F10 lockouts. This is a vacation house, only used winter weekends, so this is a disaster. The boiler has shut-down and locked-out 20x last season, 10x this season including 5 of last 6 nights.

What is F10? The Munchkin manual says, "This code appears if the flame is going out while the burner is on and this happens more then 4 times in one heat demand." Requires a manual reset.

The boiler has good periods and bad. Ran from mid Nov to late January with no problems, and now locking-out just about every night, usually in the middle of the night (I have a web-cam monitoring the control panel). Yes, I think the lock-outs are correlated with cold, but on the other hand we had some very cold nights in the Nov-Jan period when the boiler ran fine.

Possible Cause: Freeze-up of propane regulator
- In one lockout episode (mid morning on a very cold day) I was able to observe that the Rinnai tankless hot-water was not getting gas. From this I conclude that our problem is intermittant gas supply, not lack of capacity in normal conditions.
- Thinking moisture in tank, we've had methanol injected
- Replaced house regulator
- Replaced regulator at the propane tank

Any suggestions? Have others had problems with a Munchkin locking-out F10? Seems like a problem for a vacation house.

-- Sally

 
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<DaveH>
Posted
I had the same problem with my Munchkin T80M. The fix is to set the throttle with a gas analyzer so that the unit runs a 105ppm at high fire. My unit also runs with an orange flame at this setting but vibration is no longer there. Heat Transfer Products Technical support told me that the vibration is the flame searching for the gas. You can actually see this happening through the sight glass on my unit.

quote:
Originally posted by greenmountain:
We live in VT, and last month had a Munchkin 140M natural gas boiler installed. Since then, we've had an ongoing problem with the unit going into short periods of loud vibrations, lasting 40-50 seconds, with the whole unit vibrating like an old-fashioned hotel massage bed. Soemtimes it happens every 5 minutes or so, for an hour or more on end; other times it's fine for a few days. Our heating contractor -- who we found on the mfgr's website and is "vision certified -- has been out to our home twice in last 2 weeks. He says it has something to do with the fuel / oxygen mix, and tried adjusting fuel-oxygen mix screw ("throttle?"). But after he left, the the vibrations came back, They came back out today, and tried adjusting it some more, but it came back. Apparently when it's adjusted with the flame color not pure blue (i.e, w/ some orange) the vibrations doesn't occur, but when the flame looks right (nice and blue), the vibrations happen. Our contractor says he's installed many of these units in propane applications w/ no problem, but that this is only their 2nd NG installation and the other also has this vibration problem. Does anyone have any experience with this problem?
 
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