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| <NRT.Rob>
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Definitely please post your results when you have some numbers (but make sure variables are isolated, like room temperature and such). ------------------ Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC -=RFH Design, Supply and Consultation=- RPA certified Radiant Designer http://www.NRTradiant.com rob@NRTradiant.com |
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| <guest from the northwest>
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tdechill wrote:
I'm interested in installing a Munchkin oiler, Vision computer and Superstor in my home in upstate NY. Who sells them to homeowners in the NE? Thanks You can get a Munchkin boiler from the folks at www.MVSupply.biz, however I don't think they sell the Superstor. They offer free drop shipping, and a great price. Just make sure you size it yourself. If you go to their installation photo section, you can see some photo's of my boiler room on Camano Island, WA. Hope this helps. |
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| <Guest>
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This may sound stupid but how is it piped (primary/secondary?) and how many zones?
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| <greenmountain>
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2 zones, plus water heater. How do I determine if the piping is "primary" or secondary"?
Thank you. |
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| <T-roy>
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Does the gas valve have an orange line drawn on the top? You may want to call tech support. The valve may need another adjustment. Is the 3/4" gas line piped right up to the boiler? you cannot reduce the gas line size. it must be 3/4".
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I just had a Muchkin do the exact same thing after I used my combustion analyzer. The boiler first needs to be commissed by performing a combustion Analyzation to ensure proper CO and CO2 levels. Then there is a allen screw above the throttle which further adjusts the unit between high and low fire. Contact your contractor and have him contact HTP and they will walk him through it.
Good Luck and Happy hoildays Jeffrey |
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| <Dunwell>
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I'm in upstate NY myself and having this setup installed right now. My plumber bought the supplies thru FW Webb, but I paid for it. They can sell to you directly. The Webb prices were much much cheaper than the online prices. I must've saved $500 on the boiler alone! Good luck, Dunn |
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| <Joseph T.>
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We just started to carry a new pvc vent boiler 92% eff. from Triangle Tube. It looks very promising and is very simple in its design. Prestige Solo 110. It is worth taking a look at.
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| <jlaw>
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Hello can some help with the error message of F01 or F11 for the Munchkin 199M. I have to reset it to get the boiler going again a few times a night. Having no luck with the Massachusetts Office finding us an HVAC person near Boston to help. Please call or email me if you are a Munchkin expert to assist. Thank you very much 617-385-1376.
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| <GuestFromTheNorthwest>
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originally posted by jlaw:
Hello can some help with the error message of F01 or F11 for the Munchkin 199M. I have to reset it to get the boiler going again a few times a night. Having no luck with the Massachusetts Office finding us an HVAC person near Boston to help. Please call or email me if you are a Munchkin expert to assist. Thank you very much 617-385-1376. I'm not a Munchkin expert, just a Munchkin 199M owner. Here's what my Munchkin book says for these codes. F01: Safety Limit Flue - This code appears if the Safety Limit Flue senses a temperature higher than 210 degrees. Remedy - Push the red button down on the Flue sensor, then push the reset button on the display. If you experience another F01 lock out code, replace the flue sensor, then try again. Check to see that condensation line is not frozen. Manually reset by pushing the S4/reset button. If this problem persists, call factory for further assistance. F11: The flame detector circuit is seeing a flame signal while no flame is present. Remedy - Check the wiring to the Gas Balve. Check the flame rod and make sure it's clean, then manually reset S4/Reset button. If a lockout occurs, replace the board. You can contact Heat Transfer Products, Inc. at (800) 323-9651. Hope this helps. Good luck! |
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You may want to check that your flue is not obstructed - check outside to insure that the end is not frozen or blocked by snow / ice. This applies also to your combustion air intake. Listen to make sure you combustion air blower is running. Check to see that the tubing from the pressure sensor is connected at both ends. Pull off and push on your electrical connectors at the circuit board to insure that they have not corroded or making poor contact (do this with power off of course, - and gently, -the board can crack).
Flue obstruction is rather common, - check that first. No doubt some one out your way will read your thread and get back to you on a service tech, Niels |
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| <Guest>
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The sensor is probably bad (talking from experience). I would bet my left nut that if you replace it it will work fine. They aren't expensive.
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| <tr>
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Sweed, Do you live in Oregon? I live in Portland and have been wanting to take a look at someone's radiant setup before I install. Me email address is mxt196@yahoo.com. Give me and email and maybe we can meet up sometime. |
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Having problems with a Munchkin boiler for radiant floor heating in a vacation house. Propane, in-ground tank. Cold climate.
Since the installation 16 months ago, we have been plagued by F10 lockouts. This is a vacation house, only used winter weekends, so this is a disaster. The boiler has shut-down and locked-out 20x last season, 10x this season including 5 of last 6 nights. What is F10? The Munchkin manual says, "This code appears if the flame is going out while the burner is on and this happens more then 4 times in one heat demand." Requires a manual reset. The boiler has good periods and bad. Ran from mid Nov to late January with no problems, and now locking-out just about every night, usually in the middle of the night (I have a web-cam monitoring the control panel). Yes, I think the lock-outs are correlated with cold, but on the other hand we had some very cold nights in the Nov-Jan period when the boiler ran fine. Possible Cause: Freeze-up of propane regulator - In one lockout episode (mid morning on a very cold day) I was able to observe that the Rinnai tankless hot-water was not getting gas. From this I conclude that our problem is intermittant gas supply, not lack of capacity in normal conditions. - Thinking moisture in tank, we've had methanol injected - Replaced house regulator - Replaced regulator at the propane tank Any suggestions? Have others had problems with a Munchkin locking-out F10? Seems like a problem for a vacation house. -- Sally ------------------ Sally Shears (a.k.a. "Molly") SallyShears@gmail.com |
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| <Guest>
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Can't help with the propane issues, but another thing to check...
Hold down the S4 button for 3 seconds. Now, press the S4 button until you reach the D7 function (current read from flame rectification probe). This should read somewhere between 3.8 and 4.2. If not clean or replace it. |
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Possible Cause: Freeze-up of propane regulator
- In one lockout episode (mid morning on a very cold day) I was able to observe that the Rinnai tankless hot-water was not getting gas. From this I conclude that our problem is intermittant gas supply, not lack of capacity in normal conditions. - Thinking moisture in tank, we've had methanol injected - Replaced house regulator - Replaced regulator at the propane tank Any suggestions? Have others had problems with a Munchkin locking-out F10? Seems like a problem for a vacation house. -- Sally ------------------ Sally Shears (a.k.a. "Molly") SallyShears@gmail.co You may have solved your own problem. Try picking up some of the heat tape that sells for preventing hose bibs from freezing up and wrap your regulator if its outside. Do you have drip legs installed in the gas piping just prior to the gas line entering the gas valve of your heaters? Just a thought. Greg |
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| <DaveH>
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Sally,
I have had the same problem and others with my Munchkin. You should start by cleaning the flame rod with emery cloth and re-installing it. I have to clean mine every 3 weeks or I get the same problem. It is an easy task and only requires a philips screw driver. One dealer told me to install a new "MIT" buner and flame rod. I'm waiting for the parts to retrofit my Munchkin. Hope this helps.
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| <DaveH>
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I had the same problem with my Munchkin T80M. The fix is to set the throttle with a gas analyzer so that the unit runs a 105ppm at high fire. My unit also runs with an orange flame at this setting but vibration is no longer there. Heat Transfer Products Technical support told me that the vibration is the flame searching for the gas. You can actually see this happening through the sight glass on my unit.
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