Trying to learn as much as possible about the various types of systems available. I'm about 90% convinced that my first floor will not be on a slab. So, trying to find opinions and thoughts on the differing dry systems available. These seem to be the 4 most popular. What do you think of them?

Warmboard –acts as its own subfloor, on top of which you can apply carpet, hardwood, etc. Seems to have the same general btu output as other systems below.

Raupanel, Thermalboard and Stadler-Viega all offer systems that are applied over the subfloor. And on top of which you can apply carpet, hardwood, etc. All seem to have the same general btu output available. (Tough to verify as the charts are somewhat hard for a non-engineer to decipher footnotes.)

My initial impression is that Warmboard could be susceptible to damage between its installation and the final coverup. However, I like the 4 x 8 sheet size. The other 3 are sold in much smaller pieces and applied just before finish flooring. Which could be good in smaller rooms as there would be less waste.

For new construction, which is your favorite and why? Have you been able to make any informed cost comparisons between these 4 products?


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Josie

I have only used quick track and raupanel and I liked the raupanel better...Eric

Look into Roth Panel. Works like warmboard. MUCH lower cost. 2 x 4 sheets.

Has anyone ever wondered what would happen if a house with Roth ever caught on fire? I would think the black toxic fumes would overtake you in seconds????? I realize a lot of new materials are probably like this, but we've all seen what fire does to foam.

quote:

Originally posted by Josie:
Warmboard –acts as its own subfloor, on top of which you can apply carpet, hardwood, etc. Seems to have the same general btu output as other systems below.

Raupanel, Thermalboard and Stadler-Viega all offer systems that are applied over the subfloor. And on top of which you can apply carpet, hardwood, etc. All seem to have the same general btu output available. (Tough to verify as the charts are somewhat hard for a non-engineer to decipher footnotes.)

And now you have added Roth Panel to the list!

Is there some way to compare the btu output and clearly say that Option X is the most efficient?

quote:

Originally posted by Josie:
Is there some way to compare the btu output and clearly say that Option X is the most efficient or are they all pretty much the same?

By the way, in a typical structure fire, the smoke will kill you long before any flame reaches you. The outgassing from all of the various products made with hydrocarbons or treated with hydrocarbons are absolutely 100% deadly. In the event of a fire, even a "small fire" get out! Let the FD wearing full breathing apparatus take care of putting it out.


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Josie

Josie et. al.,

The Raupanel and Roth panels (as well as Thermofin) are all thermodynamically excellent products for the same reason that Warmboard is. We all use thick aluminum on top of our panels and the aluminum makes good contact with the “U” shaped aluminum in our channels. Thermal board and Stadler-Viega have much poorer tubing contact, use thinner aluminum and in general are a good notch down in performance.

As to cost, it is a mistake to consider only the purchase price of the panel. If you are doing new construction, Warmboard replaces the structural subfloor that you were going to pay to buy and pay to install. For an apples to apples comparison, this means that you can subtract the cost of the subfloor saved (typically $1- $1.50/sf) and there is little or no additional labor cost over that which any subfloor requires. Overlay panels can cost $1-$3/sf extra once you consider the cost of installing them and attaching finish floor goods to them. In new construction, the installed cost of Warmboard with finish floor goods attached, is typically the lowest of the various modular panel systems. Warmboard performance need not cost more.

Although tubing damage is not nearly as common as you might imagine, if the possibiliy of damage is your main concern, you don’t have to put in tubing before wall framing. We are happy to design your Warmboard system for tubing installation late in construction to further mitigate damage concerns.

quote:

Originally posted by Josie:
Is there some way to compare the btu output and clearly say that Option X is the most efficient?

Yes, do a heat load calculation, figure out what kind of water temp you would need to meet the load for a few different methods, look at your heat source....

If all you are concerned with is what has the highest output, as terry noted all the heavy gauge aluminum products should be in the same ballpark. Whether you need or get benefit out of that higher output or not is a question too, however. Sometimes the answer is YES and sometimes it's no.



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Northeast Radiant Technology, LLC
-=RFH Design, Supply and Consultation=-
RPA certified Radiant Designer
http://www.NRTradiant.com
rob@NRTradiant.com

Yeah I'm aware the smoke gets to you long before the fire does. My point is, foam goes up like a Christmas tree, and puts off noxious fumes. There was that night club a year or so back that used a foam type sound deadener on the stage. The band (Great White???) lit off some pyrotechnics on stage sparking a fire. If you remember, half the people didn't make it out. I'm just a little concerned (and maybe for no good reason) that the Roth panel, in a fire, might not give you enough reaction time to get out.

I don't know.